Good night from Spain
Congratulations on your project and your forum.
I'm also doing a ROV project, but with Arduino. At the moment I have quite a few problems with the program, but reading the topic of
The problem arises of having to open the ROV for battery charging. This has been raised to many and the most published solution, which is not the most correct one is to open the ROV, remove the batteries, and put them to charge.
This can be solved by incorporating into our projects the new generation of wireless batteries and chargers, which is being used for some Smatphones, if you manage to put the battery down enough and in contact with the surface of the ROV housing, you can put it on top of the charger, without opening the ROV, and thus avoid the problems caused with the water inlet.
Merry Christmas to all
Furthermore, its compatibility with various systems immensely lessens the installation process, making it your favourite buddy right from the beginning of your time together.
In order to find more products that you can install in your home yourself, you can check out thermostat.
Back to the great topic :-) I'm thinking of modifying to use an external battery housing via cable penetration through the sphere. Main reason is that I'm using the drone on a boat in a saltwater environment (videos coming soon!!!) and nervous about having to open the sphere every 30 mins and way too impatient to wait for a charge :-).
I saw somewhere on these forums people talking about purchasing high quality cable penetration from another ROV company (Blue ROV?) but think I will purchase a second dome first to test for leaks/buoyancy etc. before installing the electronics.
Appreciate any advice or tips anyone has about this particularly about adding a second battery in parallel or using higher capacity batteries as may interfere with the electronics?
AliExpress can be cheaper but Amazon shipping is faster, products more reliable quality and refunds/returns less problematic. Also some sellers on AliExpress may offer great prices but products could just be factory seconds (ie defective).
If buying wholesale probably better to use Alibaba but need to be extra careful with this, particularly when making payment and never (ever) engage in any transaction or communication outside the official Alibaba site even if the seller requests it as you may unknowingly be doing business with one of the 40 million thieves rather than the original factory.
On AliExpress most issues can be avoided by only purchasing products with lots of sales and reviews (positive) and if you do have a problem with a product NEVER (ever) let the 15 day dispute period expire without lodging a dispute if you are not satisfied. Even if the seller is communicative always lodge a dispute within 15 days as even the most responsive seller may suddenly become uncommunicative after that period :-)
Finally always leave feedback within the feedback period. Good for the honest sellers and buyers and shows you are an active buyer who will respond if dissatisfied.
Good night from Spain.
I was also looking at this kind of configuration for charging ROV batteries, but when I look at it at the time the prices were prohibitive. They're much cheaper now.
I have nothing against amazon purchases, but I advise you to look for the same product in aliexpress.com, possibly the same products with the same characteristics are much cheaper, unless you have some kind of commitment to a specific store. In your case, you will buy many units of the same product, I advise you to search a local store, they must have the same products but with some kind of discount for wholesale purchases.
For example, you have
If they don't have that particular product in their virtual store, you can contact them, in case they had it in the physical store.
I also have no interest for you to buy in Adafruit, I put it alone as an example, It's all about lowering production costs
Good evening from California! This is a great idea, I’ve had an inductive charge setup in mind for a while now, but I haven’t set aside time to phr together a test setup. This post finally got me to compile a shopping list today, so I’ll share it here to see what you think! I believe it should be possible to modify the current kits with three pieces of electronics (below), as well as a 3D printed housing for the charging coil. - 24V, 2A power supply. This connects to a wall socket, and supplies power to the charging coil. SHNITPWR 24V DC Power Supply Adapter 24 Volt 2A 48W AC to DC Converter Transformer 100~240V AC Input with 5.5x2.5mm DC Tip for 5050 3528 LED Strip 3D Printer CCTV Security System LCD Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SDRDV5B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_M6w6FbV85RJ6M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 - 12V 2A Inductive Charging circuit. The transmitting coil is powered by the above power supply, and it could mount against the electronics sphere. Inside the sphere, the receiver coil is mounted against the rear dome, where it receives power. This is wired to the power pins on the balance charger (next) Taidacent 12V 2A High Power 8mm ~ 18mm Wireless Charging Module DIY Inductive Modules Wireless Charger Module Power Supply Kit Receiver and Transmitter Offering Technical Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GZ59HR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xcx6FbM8SF9B5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 - Balance charger. This is powered by the inductive receiver coil, and charges each cell of the onboard 3S Lopo battery. Comidox 3S 12V 10A 18650 Lithium Battery Protection Board BMS Li-ion Charger Protection Module Anti-Overcharge/Over-Discharge/Over-Current/Short Circuit 3Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9NXQ6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_lhx6Fb3JR8C3V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 There are a few other tweaks I’d like to make before introducing these on production kits, but I think it’s fundamentally a nice approach towards being able to keep the dome sealed indefinitely. Certainty worth an experiment! I’ll probably order a set of this hardware and see what I can do this week. Best! -Costas